All You Need to Know About Chocolate – Review of E. Notter Chocolate Book

Chocolate Art Work by Ewald Notter - Amazing

This is the time to indulge in life’s delicacies – and what else can represent it better than chocolate.

It is usually the time that I look for chocolate books as gifts for my friends who share my enthusiasm about this  glorious product. At this time I decided to review the chocolate book created by one of my mentors,  the famous  sugar and chocolate artist, Ewald Notter.

If you really want to learn to work with chocolate and to understand this temperamental product – then this is the book that should treat yourself with as a Christmas or Chanukah gift.

If you are more interested in  a book that has lots of recipes, this is not the book that you should buy. I am actually surprised about the limited quantity of new cookbooks with chocolate as the central theme.

I attended  Ewald’s class about working with chocolates and creating truffles, pralines, and molded bonbons and I can tell you that Ewald spares no time nor effort to make sure that you gain the most in his class.  I was still in my infancy of learning at the time and made errors on left and right.  Ewald knew that I am an amateur, not a pastry chef, nevertheless, he worked with me until I got it right.

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Gluten-Free Made Simple

a cookbook written by Carol Field Dahlstrom, Elizabeth Dahlstrom Burnley, and Marcia Schultz Dahlstrom

I don’t like Labor Day, because it represents the end of summer. But the long weekend offered plenty of time to combine business with pleasure, by finding a couple of new baking books at my local Barnes & Noble.

Full reviews will wait upon recipe performance, but in the meantime I thought I’d share what I’ve found so far.

Gluten Free Made Simple was written by the Dahlstrom girls: Carol, who was the editor of Better Homes & Gardens for more than twenty years, Elizabeth, who is a nutritionist teaching a gluten-free diet and Marcia, a wife and mother with celiac disease who knows firsthand how to live comfortably with a gluten-free lifestyle.

These days you can’t walk through the cookbook aisle without being surrounded by books about gluten-free diets. It’s not just for celiac disease any more. Did you know, that the top male tennis player in the world, Novak Djokovic, eats gluten-free to improve his athletic performance?

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Top 100 Blogs Plus For Chocolate Lovers (Part 2)

 

III. Chocolate Cookbooks

Cookbooks that discuss, cover, photograph, teach and write about chocolates are as important for us, chocolate enthusiast, as air to keeping us alive.  Some of us are serious collectors with perhaps hundreds of books in our library; it is enough that the book has only the word “chocolate” buried somewhere on page 99 and it is purchased; some of us are more selective and buy only what we think is relevant to our chocolate business, and some of us are just enjoy looking at photographs at Barnes & Nobles or in the library.  Nevertheless, we do not have a book shelve without a book about chocolate. I thought, I must list here some with a brief review, so that if you do not own yet anyone of the books listed here, you may have a second thought about them. Another possibility is that you never heard of them; in which case I am delighted to expose you to these gems so that you’ll have an opportunity to enrich your personal collection.

This list is definitely not exhaustive; most likely I will add more in Part 3, but even then, I am positive it will not be complete. We will continue to find more and more of these important reference books.

I’d like to thank you for visiting and ask you to send me your favorite book, if it is not listed here. I am interested to develop an exhaustive list so that everyone can find what they are looking for.

Since this is a list, not an article, I have a big favor to ask you now and not at the conclusion of the report. I will very much appreciate it if you could volunteer to be my friend on Facebook so that I can create a very useful reference source for you there, as well. I am unable to do  it until I do not have at least 24 friends. Thanks for your consideration. I promise to deliver many useful information on this blog and via other media, whenever I can.

1. Candy Freak, by Steve Almond. This is an entertaining book about chocolate. Steve Almond, the author introduces us to the “fading away, little guy” candy maker. Most of the time, while reading the book I have not only laughed out loud, but tears were running down my cheek from the laughing.  I definitely wanted more.

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Ten Tips to Become a Better Baker

 

Rigo Jancsi: The cake is named after Rigo Jancsi, a Hungarian gypsy violinist, who helped create it for the woman he loved!

There are so many books about baking, bakers, cakes, desserts, chocolates, etc., that it made me wonder how all these books are doing so well in a crowded market? How a publisher can accept to publish another baking book, unless the author accepts a sure failure?

But here we are in 2011 with more food bloggers getting ready to publish their book (e.g. Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen, in 2012), celebrities are having more fun writing cookbooks then acting (Suzanne Somers, Gwyneth Paltrow), and Joanne Chang, the owner of Flour Bakery in Boston, sold 20,000 copies of her new book before she could even start her book signing tour.

How can it be? Well, for one, there are so many of us baking enthusiasts who rather buy more bookshelves than miss a new book about baking. The truth of the matter is that it is one of the better ways to enhance our knowledge and understanding in baking and learn new techniques and creative recipes.

Pound Cake with Chocolate Ganache Frosting

Another great source to satisfy our thirst for understanding the culture of baking is the Internet, particularly the many blogs that appear to cover foods from appetizers to after dinner drinks and more. Chocolates & Figs is one these blogs, where we aspire  to be your resource  with problem solving and making sure that you are up-to-date in the baking world.  Our goal is assisting you to cut the events when your baking product is less than perfect. We are aiming to reinforce your confidence in baking (and in creating confections) and provide you with the necessary tools to be successful all the time, not only some of the time.

Dark and White Chocolate-dipped Strawberries

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How Alice Medrich’s Tiger Cake Changes When Baked in Different Bakewares

Tiger Cake By Alice Medrich with a little twist by Georgette

Plese Note: There was an error in the recipe. The eggs were left out. It is corrected now. Sorry about the mishap.

This last weekend I needed to have a fast dessert for a birthday party, so based on my experience (meaning something that I baked multiple times) I selected the Tiger Cake from Alice Medrich’s cookbook, titled: “Bittersweet.” Although this cake is not known to be the prototype  for a “speedy gonzales” preparation, I thought my extensive experience in working with this recipe will overcome all other issues. BTW, it is actually a chocolate marble cake that uses extra virgin olive oil instead of butter, which makes my health-conscious relatives less guilty eating it; after all olive oil is good for you.

The recipe also calls for a pinch of white pepper to add a touch of heat to the cake and to accentuate the flavor of the olive oil. I added chilli pepper and sweet Hungarian paprika instead, because I did not feel any “heat” last time, when I baked it with the white pepper. Actually, it is more trendy to use these spices with chocolate than black or white pepper.

Suddenly it occurred to me that I could  also use this cake (which actually belongs to the pound cake families) to show the effects of using different bake wares.  Medrich recommends the use of either a 10 to 12-cup size Bundt pan or two 6-cup size loaf pans.  We discussed in earlier posts the effects of the size of the pan on baking time.

I only have 8-cup loaf pans ( 9 X 5 X 3), which is what I used in baking these two loafs. By using larger pans than Medrich recommends,  I needed to consider that the cake will bake faster because I changed the “depth” of the batter (the batter has more space to spread, so it is less deep in these larger pans.) However, I also used one standard and one double-insulated aluminum pan (because that is what I wanted to show); so now I created another factor to be considered for baking time. In fact, my theory of selecting a “quick-baking” cake just went out of the window. Oh well, didn’t I say that I like to learn always something new? And wait until I will tell you what else happened with this poor, beautiful, delicious cake; you will see how experience flew out of the window, as well.

Loaf pans, both 8-cup capacity, L is standard, R is double insulated

Please check the top photo with the two loafs, side-by-side. Doesn’t it seem as if one was baked in a much larger pan as compared to the other? Naturally, the higher cake is softer (less dense) and more moist, despite the fact that both pans are the same size. The cake in the  insulated pan was ready in 70 minutes, which is what Medrich suggested. So what happened to the change in the depth of the batter? [Read more...]

CHOCOLATES YOU MUST KNOW – TOP TEN CHOCOLATIERS IN THE US

We arrived at the Top Two Chocolatiers in the US – or What I Would Call: The Creme-De-La-Creme of  Chocolatiers. So, Here is Number Two: La Maison du Chocolates

Great Tasty Gift


The Artisan/Robert Linxe/La Maison du Chocolates:

Robert Linxe, the creator of La Maison du Chocolates,  learned his profession in Bayonne, before enhancing his knowledge and perfecting his artisic talent in Switzerland. He opened hist first chocolate boutique in 1955 in Paris and sold it in 1977 in order to establish the first Maison du Chocolat shop on the famous rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the basement of a former wine cellar. He selected this location specifically because it provided the ideal conditions to preserve chocolates—much like wine. He installed his laboratory and worked there for more than ten years. By 1987, Linxe’s shop became such a hit that he was able to open a second shop and three years later, he expanded to the U.S. and opened his first shop on Madison Avenue in New York City. To date, he continues to devote himself to his passion of creativity and share with others his dedication for perfection. No wonder that his colleagues and his customers consider him “The God of Chocolate.”

The Chocolates/La Maison du Chocolates:

Robert Linxe, the creator of La Maison du Chocolates,   specializes in creating chocolates with the creamiest ganache, the most harmonious and balanced use of ingredients, and enrobed in the thinest couverture; there isn’t any comparable chocolate in the world (as of now).  When you walk into the store on Madison Avenue, in New York City, you feel as if you must take a deep breath (inhale the air) and hold it, and hold it and never exhale; that is how wonderful the aroma that radiates from the chocolates that are displayed on the glass shelves so elegantly.  Most of the time I try to get a seat at one of the limited number of tables and order their aromatic espresso (and if I really want to indulge, a gorgeous piece of chocolate cake next to it) to sip very slowly, so that I can extend the joy of the “chocolate high”  you get while you are in the store.  It is really hard to describe the ambiance where chocolate lovers must pinch themselves to feel if they alive or just arrived to chocolate heaven (which they do not mind at all).
Linxe’s passionate involvement in the creation of his pralines and bonbons are evident in every single piece.  This is the only chocolate company (aside from Richart’s) that no matter how hard you try, you will never succeed to find a chocolate that you do not care for, or that the combination of ingredients do no work well with the chocolate.
As I said repeatedly, I always prefer dark chocolates with very deep and complex flavors but Linxe’s milk chocolate creations are not far behind with respect to feel, flavor, and texture; therefore, Linxe’s and Richart’s milk chocolates are the only ones that I enjoy almost as much as the dark chocolates.
Linxe categorizes his chocolates into groups, so as much as I could, I was attempting to select samples from each group. In general, all of Linxe’s bonbons and pralines appear to be elegantly simple (he does not need any extravagant designs, colors and other hoopla); the statements of Linxe’s creations are created in your mouth. His chocolates are also among the very few, that when you cut the piece into half, the ganache appears be perfectly smooth, no air bubbles, or “holes” between the ganache and the cover; just perfect. La Maison ships the hand-made chocolates from France several times a week to assure their freshness.
The Timeless Ganache
Caracas - as its name states made with Venezuelan beans and the feel of the chocolate certainly reflects that. This is the perfect example of a dark chocolate with deep complex flavors and a touch of light fruity aroma that lingers in your mouth for eternity following melting (and we are delighted that it takes that long for the chocolate to melt )
Quito -I have no idea what this name means but the ganache created with a combination of Venezuelan, Trinidadian, Ecuadorian and and Madagascarian beans, feels real special; once again, you get that deep, complex flavor, mainly from the Venezuelan bean, but here the vanilla is more prominent, I believe due to the beans from Madagascar.
Sylvia - This chocolate is one of the examples of a milk chocolate creation that, although a bit too sweet for my taste, its silky-smooth ganache melts sensuously in one’s mouth and the subtle, light touch of caramel notes are just icing on the cake.
The Timeless Pralines
In this group you can see that Linxe likes to name his chocolate creations after operas, arias  and/or lead characters.
Traviatta - This chocolate is as playful and “ready to party” as the early scenes of the opera with the combination of  crackling roasted, finely ground almonds and a tease of caramel notes; it could be the perfect accompaniment to a great glass of buttery, pink Champagne. I am glad that Linxe did not complete the creation with a tragic ending.
Figaro - Figaro here/Figaro there – hazelnuts here/almonds there and here comes the caramel; both nuts are roasted to perfection then added to the caramel and crushed together. The taste is perfect because the caramel was prepared to perfection (as Linxe describes it on the website: if the caramel overcooked, it becomes bitter and if it is undercooked it is too sweet – it is neither in this piece.
Pistachio- I love pistachio, so of course I had to taste this one. The way Linxe added the crushed pistachio to he ganache is quite unique – it does not effect the creaminess of the ganache yet it allows the full enjoyment of the light crunchiness the pistachio provides – and those perfect bright-green-colored morsels are unbelievably beautiful,  WOW!
Fruited Chocolates
Malaga - Now this milk chocolate I could consume everyday (and you should too); the aroma of the powerful, well-harmonized taste of bergamot with the hint of the bitter orange taste that will linger on your palate indefinitely, is just heavenly – add to it a very light crunch that the hazelnut brings to the velvety sensuous ganache and you can feel the ultimate joy of a flawless chocolate creation.
Jolika - What can be better than the combination of almond paste mixed with bright green pistachio slivers throughout the ganache – nothing. It is beautiful, it is delightful to your palate and it is a memorable experience to allow it to melt slowly on your palate.
Intoxicating Ganache (I love this name)
Faust - Once again, it is the perfect name for this chocolate (if you know the story of Faust); under the very thin milky coverture lies a beautiful, silky milk chocolate ganache flavored with flambéed aged rum that enhances the flavor; however, it dissipates quite rapidly once the chocolate melted on your palate and leaves only the feel of the somewhat sophisticated smooth milk chocolate ganache.
Bacchus - created with a Valrhona’s  venezuelan mix. The ganache is flavored with Smirna raisins from Turkey (the best in the world) that is steeped in hot water before flambéed with Caribbean rum. WOW! When the flame burns from red to blue, as the last alcohol drop is vanishes, a lid is clamped on and the raisins are left to macerate for 15 days. I never had a rum-raisin like this one. Talking about a memorable experience; I must try to recreate this one; this chocolate is not only out of this world, it is the world.
The Champagne Truffle is something you must experience personally.  I cannot find the words in the English language that would do justice to describe the mouth-feel of this truffle. In addition, you can feel how the top quality cognac used in the creation is trying to exert itself during the melting process but the dark chocolate allows it only to partner with it for an end product that takes the best qualities of both and present it to your taste bud for one of the most remarkable experience.

Cookbook: La Maison du Chocolat: Transcendent Desserts by the Legendary Chocolatier

Robert Linxe’s Cookbook is the best chocolate book I own and the only chocolate book I read from cover to cover. If you ever had the desire to learn anything and everything about chocolate, to understand how to work with this temperamental product, how to create your own masterpieces, and what ingredients work the best with which type of chocolate, then look no further.  Robert Linxe shares his phenomenal chocolate-making knowledge in this beautifully photographed volume. He shares his use of the purest ingredients, his secrets for creating incredible truffles and pralines, as well as cakes, cookies and other desserts where chocolate is the star. It is the best gift that you can give to a gourmand, a bride and/or a chocophile.

Where to buy:
La Maison du Chocolat has locations in Hong Kong, London, Tokyo and Cannes, in addition to seven retail stores in Paris and four in New York. The chocolates are also available at Bergdorf Goodman department stores. Its products can also be ordered online and are deliverable to 31 countries. The cookbook is available on Amazon.com, Barnes and Nobles and Borders bookshops.

CHOCOLATES YOU MUST KNOW – TOP TEN CHOCOLATIERS

Recchiuti Chocolate Samples

INTRODUCING THE SEVENTH CHOCOLATIER:

RECCHIUTI, SAN FRANCISCO

The Artisan:

The Bay Area is the epicenter of great artisanal chocolate products. Michael Recchiuti is one of the top masters of the trade and his chocolates are a true works of art.  He has a production facility in the southeastern section of San Francisco, and a successful, high profile shop in the Ferry Building.

The Chocolates:

The truffles and bonbons contain a perfectly smooth and silky-textured ganache with intense flavors and elegant presentation. We highly recommend that you do not miss out on this one if and when you are visiting the San Francisco area; however, if you can’t get there personally, you can make your order online and enjoy the entire box upon its arrival to your home. I can’t imagine a more elegant and extravagant gift than these delicate and perfectly balanced chocolate creations.

Michael Recchiuti produces a sublime Champagne Truffle with 2001 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine and a delicate touch of powdered sugar, which is a must – and you will never buy truffles from anyone else. His crunchy sesame nougat is another stunner with its earthy depth, and addictive texture that lingers in one’s mouth for eternity. The Tarragon Grapefruit is a leap of faith into the unknown, but every bite is a reaffirmation of Recchiuti’s extraordinary talent. The Fleur de Sel (salted with French sea salt) contains a pleasantly chewy burnt caramel coated with dark chocolate; the flavors are nicely balanced and the burnt caramel is one of the best we have ever tasted (and we tasted plenty). In fact, we can honestly declare that Michael Recchiuti should be imitated by anyone that wants to create the perfect burnt caramel (not to mention, he should be inducted into the Hall of Fame as the World’s Best Burnt Caramel Producer)

Lemon Verbena is an extra-bitter, dark chocolate ganache with a bright and clear taste of Lemon Verbena, coated in dark chocolate with a beautiful white leaf pattern adorning the top surface. The chocolate is rich and refreshing at the same time. The Force Noir is made with extra-bitter chocolate ganache infused with whole vanilla bean. It is absolutely out-of-this-world; the extra-bitter chocolate gives a pure, clean, intense chocolate experience and the vanilla bean adds that sweetness you need to balance the bitterness. I cannot complete this review without mentioning the Piedmont Hazelnut chocolate. It is a beautiful piece with silky, buttery texture of the gianduja ganache complemented with the light crunchiness of the Piedmont hazelnut (the best in the world). We also ordered their Dragee Sampler which comes with Burnt Caramel Almonds, Hazelnuts, Peanut Butter Pearls, and Cherries Two Ways – WOW! Talking about indulging.

I own a copy of Michael’s book: “Chocolate Obsession” and I am glad I do. At first, I hesitated to purchase it because, being a chocolate snob, I decided that I had enough training; I do not need another book to tell me how to temper chocolate. I was surprised, however, that despite my resistance, I still learned  a few things or two from his book; not to mention the experimentation of creating some his recipes was truly events to remember.  Although I do not reproduce his creations in my repertoire (I do not think it would be fair), some of his techniques assisted me in developing my own master pieces.

The book primarily discusses the simple forms of chocolates (i.e. truffles, dipped and moulded chocolates), for the home maker, but I was delighted that he included his signature creation: the s’mores. In general, what I liked most about Michael’s book is the tone of his writing. When you reading the recipes, or the stories attached to it, you feel as if an old friend wants to share his knowledge with you in the most  intimate manner possible. Anyone interested to learn and experiment in working with chocolates should own a copy. Moreover, it is a great conversation opener when placed on your coffee table in the family room.

How to Order:

One can always order online: http://www.recchiuti.com. Recchiuti’s elegant signature is also evident on his website.  Every box is appealing and  every chocolate is described in the most tempting manner. They are listing their gift boxes, as well as their individual bonbons, from which you an create your own personalized candy box. They also sell sauces (see above the writeup about their burnt caramel); and chocolate bars  (We will review the bars in another upcoming post).