CHOCOLATES YOU MUST KNOW – TOP TEN CHOCOLATIERS IN THE US

NUMBER THREE ON OUR LIST IS: NORMAN LOVE’S CHOCOLATES

Norman Love's Jewels

The Artisan:

Following completion of his training in the art of pastry in France, Norman Love joined numerous luxury resorts in the US, including the Beverly Hills Hotel and the Ritz-Carlton as executive pastry chef. Norman has been recognized by many of the industry leaders as a chef with impeccable skills and one of the most talented chefs of his generation. Chocolatier and Pastry Art and Design magazine named him one of the country’s top 10 pastry chefs in 1996 and 1997.  His work has been celebrated by publications such as Art Culinaire, Pastry & Baking, USA Today, Robb Report, InStyle and Entrepreneur magazines. He is also a contributing author to four books including “Baking with Julia.”

He founded his confection-making venture in 2001 in Fort Myers, Florida with the aim to introduce his customers to the finest  chocolate products created with the freshest and most innovative ingredients.  I believe we all agree that he succeeded. in 2009, Norman received the honor as one of the “Top 10 Chocolatiers in North America” by Dessert Magazine. Norman believes that dark chocolate is the next red wine (and I second it)  and he wants to be a front runner in the trend. So far, he is on his way.

The Chocolates:


Opening a box of Norman Love confections is like opening a box of edible jewels. Each shiny bonbon should be savored and appreciated. To tell you the truth, following opening the spectacular box I ordered, I did not want to touch the content. I just wanted to bath my eyes in these beauties and enjoy the view.  However, that may not be the greatest idea, because chocolates need to be savored through one’s palate (although, the visual appeal is important, as well). However, I believe, that there is such a thing as over-stimulation of the eye appeal and if  the mouth-feel does not match the sight sensation, the disappointment can be explosive. Now, let me assure you that nothing exploded following a taste testing; but in his case that is not the greatest thing either, because I was waiting for that wonderful explosion of the elements that makeup a great ganache. To be fair, it occurred following some of the chocolates and in those cases the explosion was dangerously passionate.

The Venezuelan dark is definitely up there. I did not expect anything less than that from a Criolo-based ganache, once it came in touch with the warmth of my mouth. There was a slight competition for a similar effect from the spicy hot chocolate ganache that is infused with jalapeno pepper and although the combination worked perfectly, the Criolo won handily. Passion fruit is my weakness because it is such a great fruit to be combined with a good quality chocolate. The tartness of the fruit and the sweetness (or bittersweetness) of the chocolate, is a marriage made in heaven. So, it definitely works well in the appropriately named heart-shaped confection, but I am still trying to understand the reason(s) Norman decided to paint the heart yellow. On the other hand, let me take it back; I understand that the color helps to identify the content, (in this case the passion fruit), but if you only have one heart-shaped chocolate in the dark group, do you really need to identify the “passion fruit?” The chocolate has a nice floral aroma, it is light and gentle on the palate, has a great silky-smooth finish and a citrus-honey-like aftertaste. The ratio of fruit puree to chocolate is just perfect in this beautiful heart.The most interesting and unique chocolate in the dark group is the Rum Cake. Since I like anything that soaked in rum, I found this chocolate to be a pleasant teaser on my palate but would prefer the use of either milk or dark chocolate ganache; the white chocolate overpowers the rum and not in a good way.

There are quite a few wonderful creations in the milk chocolate group, including the Tahitian Caramel, the Pistachio with tart Cherries and the Peanut  Butter Banana. The bursting of the caramel center in my mouth from the Tahitian Caramel was a wonderful surprise; it is perfectly blended with the milk chocolate flavor-wise, as well as texture-wise, but in this case the oozing caramel center is the star. The Peanut Butter with the banana is a well harmonized flavorful creation. I love the appearance of the Pistachio with the tart Cherries – the bonbon has a great green luster, representing the pistachio, and a touch of a maroon-colored “ribbon” representing the cherries. There is also a kind of “sophistication” in the taste of this chocolate; and the tart cherries just add a little playfulness.

I saved the best for last. More recently, Norman launched a special group of dark chocolates that he named them “BLACK”. It contains 5-pieces of ultra-premium single-origin intensely dark chocolates made with cocoa beans from some of the finest growing regions in the world. (Dominican Republic, Ecuador,  Bolivia, Venezuela, and Madagascar). The visual appearance of these chocolates is just stunning. The color coordination, the shape, the design and the originality of these extraordinary chocolates is beyond words – it is the ultimate achievement of an artist that knows no limit to a work of art. These chocolates are the true testament to Norman’s extraordinary artistic creativity.  Then, once you bite into one of these beauties, (irrespective of the region from where they originate) you arrived to chocolate heaven. Although, my favorite is still the Maracaibo Clasificado made from Criolo cocoa from Venezuela, I can honestly tell you that if you like intense dark chocolate you will not be disappointed following tasting any of these gems.

In conclusion, Norman Love and his team are uniquely talented artists that create magical products with their brush, hand and artistic talent. Just look at these photos! They use only the purest ingredients in their ganache (i.e. butter, nuts, fruit purees, spices and flavors) and enrobe it in the finest quality of chocolates (they mostly use Felchlin’s, coverture, a top quality swiss chocolate producer), without any preservatives or artificial ingredients.

Norman Love's Chocolates

Where to buy it:

It is worth a trip to Florida, from any location in the US: 11380 Lindbergh Blvd Fort Myers, FL 33913. but if that is not possible, you should definitely order some through the internet. http://www.normanloveconfections.com. You’ll be glad you did. And please send me your comments.

CHOCOLATES YOU MUST KNOW – TOP TEN CHOCOLATIERS IN THE US

HAPPY HOLIDAYS – HAPPY NEW YEAR

TIME TO CELEBRATE

AND HERE IS NUMBER FIVE: KNIPSCHILDT CHOCOLATES

This summer, I attended the Global Fancy Food Show at the Jacob Javits Center in New York City. This was a wonderful opportunity in getting oriented to new products and taste a significant number of sweets and other “foods of interest” that were presented at the show.  Knipschildt Chocolates were one of the booths that I made an unplanned stop.  They were not listed under my “must visit” category, because I do not care for golf-ball-size truffles. In this case, larger is not better.  However, they were offering to taste one of their fruit-based syrups (I had  the raspberry with peppercorn) reconstituted with champagne and served in a flute. I could not resist and I did not regret it. This was one of the best champagne cocktail I have ever poured down my throat. In fact, I would compare the experience to drinking one of those “super-thick, super-rich” (as described by Nibbles) full-bodied, real chocolate-based hot chocolate in Cambridge, Mass at L A Burdick. Yum.

Since I was standing at the front of their booth and their truffles were staring right at me, I decided to sacrifice myself and taste one of the dark chocolates. I must admit that right after the first bite, I was ready to be converted and ordered two boxes to be shipped to my office. It is not a total shock, however, since they are using Valrhona chocolate for the ganache, and the cream that is added to the chocolate to create the ganache is infused with vanilla pods for 24 hours prior to use.

Knipschildt’s best chocolate is the Green Tea Truffle. Each bittersweet chocolate ganache truffle is rolled in matcha, the fine green tea powder used for the Japanese tea ceremony; true green tea is the first flavor that tickles your palate and the flavor lingers ever so pleasantly for quite awhile. With this product Fritz Knipschildt created the true interpretation of a green tea truffle. Moreover, their presentation in a beautiful pastel-green box sealed with a bamboo pick is a genius design. Other flavors at Knipschildt include pumpkin, caramel sea salt (this one is excellent), passion fruit, pear, rose water, black currant, apricot basil and other exotic flavors, as well as some classic favorites like softly roasted hazelnut and Manuka honey from New Zealand.
Knipschildt’s “La Madeline au Truffe” was recognized by Forbes Magazine as the most expensive chocolate in the world. It is based on 70% Valrhona chocolate for the ganache with authentic truffle oil and ends with the same for dipping. The ganache is shaped around a French Perigord Truffle, aka French Black Truffle (this truffle alone costs up to $1,000 per pound) and completed by dusting it with Valrhona’s cocoa powder. Can you imagine to have a bite of this gem? It is only a mere $2,100/pound. But you can get one truffle, weighing nearly 2 ounce for $250.00. A real bargain. It is delivered to the lucky recipient placed  on a bed of sugar pearls in a silver box tied with a beautiful ribbon. Sheer extravaganza!

I guess that is what the republicans meant when they were demanding a tax cut for those making $250,000 or over – they will support the economy while indulging in life’s super-delicacies, unattainable by others.

By the way, Knipschildt Chocolates won the coveted Sofie Award at the Fancy Food Show with their Hanna Mini Signature Chocolate Box (Burnt Caramel with Hawaiian Sea Salt). The Sofi Awards are the highest honor in the specialty food industry.

Hello my friends! – I still did not hear from anyone about your favorites. I would love to create another reference list developed by the readers of this post.

CHOCOLATES YOU MUST KNOW – TOP TEN CHOCOLATIERS

Recchiuti Chocolate Samples

INTRODUCING THE SEVENTH CHOCOLATIER:

RECCHIUTI, SAN FRANCISCO

The Artisan:

The Bay Area is the epicenter of great artisanal chocolate products. Michael Recchiuti is one of the top masters of the trade and his chocolates are a true works of art.  He has a production facility in the southeastern section of San Francisco, and a successful, high profile shop in the Ferry Building.

The Chocolates:

The truffles and bonbons contain a perfectly smooth and silky-textured ganache with intense flavors and elegant presentation. We highly recommend that you do not miss out on this one if and when you are visiting the San Francisco area; however, if you can’t get there personally, you can make your order online and enjoy the entire box upon its arrival to your home. I can’t imagine a more elegant and extravagant gift than these delicate and perfectly balanced chocolate creations.

Michael Recchiuti produces a sublime Champagne Truffle with 2001 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine and a delicate touch of powdered sugar, which is a must – and you will never buy truffles from anyone else. His crunchy sesame nougat is another stunner with its earthy depth, and addictive texture that lingers in one’s mouth for eternity. The Tarragon Grapefruit is a leap of faith into the unknown, but every bite is a reaffirmation of Recchiuti’s extraordinary talent. The Fleur de Sel (salted with French sea salt) contains a pleasantly chewy burnt caramel coated with dark chocolate; the flavors are nicely balanced and the burnt caramel is one of the best we have ever tasted (and we tasted plenty). In fact, we can honestly declare that Michael Recchiuti should be imitated by anyone that wants to create the perfect burnt caramel (not to mention, he should be inducted into the Hall of Fame as the World’s Best Burnt Caramel Producer)

Lemon Verbena is an extra-bitter, dark chocolate ganache with a bright and clear taste of Lemon Verbena, coated in dark chocolate with a beautiful white leaf pattern adorning the top surface. The chocolate is rich and refreshing at the same time. The Force Noir is made with extra-bitter chocolate ganache infused with whole vanilla bean. It is absolutely out-of-this-world; the extra-bitter chocolate gives a pure, clean, intense chocolate experience and the vanilla bean adds that sweetness you need to balance the bitterness. I cannot complete this review without mentioning the Piedmont Hazelnut chocolate. It is a beautiful piece with silky, buttery texture of the gianduja ganache complemented with the light crunchiness of the Piedmont hazelnut (the best in the world). We also ordered their Dragee Sampler which comes with Burnt Caramel Almonds, Hazelnuts, Peanut Butter Pearls, and Cherries Two Ways – WOW! Talking about indulging.

I own a copy of Michael’s book: “Chocolate Obsession” and I am glad I do. At first, I hesitated to purchase it because, being a chocolate snob, I decided that I had enough training; I do not need another book to tell me how to temper chocolate. I was surprised, however, that despite my resistance, I still learned  a few things or two from his book; not to mention the experimentation of creating some his recipes was truly events to remember.  Although I do not reproduce his creations in my repertoire (I do not think it would be fair), some of his techniques assisted me in developing my own master pieces.

The book primarily discusses the simple forms of chocolates (i.e. truffles, dipped and moulded chocolates), for the home maker, but I was delighted that he included his signature creation: the s’mores. In general, what I liked most about Michael’s book is the tone of his writing. When you reading the recipes, or the stories attached to it, you feel as if an old friend wants to share his knowledge with you in the most  intimate manner possible. Anyone interested to learn and experiment in working with chocolates should own a copy. Moreover, it is a great conversation opener when placed on your coffee table in the family room.

How to Order:

One can always order online: http://www.recchiuti.com. Recchiuti’s elegant signature is also evident on his website.  Every box is appealing and  every chocolate is described in the most tempting manner. They are listing their gift boxes, as well as their individual bonbons, from which you an create your own personalized candy box. They also sell sauces (see above the writeup about their burnt caramel); and chocolate bars  (We will review the bars in another upcoming post).